Treasured nightmare

I grew up in Sydney, Australia and surfing was more or less part of my daily, if nothing else weekly routine depending on school, other sports etc. Sydney does rarely get huge swells, but big enough to get hammered in. One of the biggest fears is to get caught inside on one of those days that the swell picks up. Paddling out and seeing a wall of water building up in front of you and anticipating the massive weight that is about to pound down on your body is fear personified. Taking that last deep breath, not knowing for how long you’ll be tossed around on the bottom of the ocean like in a washing machine is not a pleasant situation to be in. In fact, so unpleasant that I still have reoccurring nightmares about this. This happens a few times a year and one of those times was last night. Waking up I’m only left with one feeling though. The feeling that it was way to long ago it happened  to me in reality.

Going big, feeling small

Maybe calling in sick today was not a good idea after all